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September 1998

Yuesday Sept 29, 1998
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6:00a-9:15a "Semi-secret spot" Southwest Shore avg wave face----------- 4-5 feet sets wave face---------- 6-8 feet mostly clear light offshores everything was pointing to an epic session: forecasted swell arrived yesterday, light offshores, clear skies, tide coming in. . . we (Neal on his long board and me on a 6'3") were pumped as we paddled out & saw set after set rolling in. nice overhead sets started out promising, then someone turned off the wave machine. nada nothing zilch, gone just like that. . actually just paddled in after a 30min wait w/no waves. oh well. still beats the best day of work. 'loha, bud ------------------------------------------ Sunday Sept 27, 1998 See the Pictures
6:10a-9:15a "Lighthouse" South Shore avg wave face----------- 2-3 feet sets wave face---------- 4 feet mostly clear, slight overcast moderate side-offshores Rest of the crew had other obligations so it was Neal & I determined to get wet. Mellow morning, not much in the way of waves. But a few decent rides were had. Neal was on his longboard, taking off deep & going for the style master lines. Saw him on one wave where he pushed his tank hard enough on a cutback to pop free of the wave. Friends Hiram & his nephew Keoni ("bones") came out to make noise & surf a bit too. good surfing to you, bud -------------------------------------------------- Sunday Sept 20, 1998 See the Pictures
6:00a-9:15a "Pyramid Rock" (KMCAS) east shore avg wave face-----------3-4 feet sets wave face----------4-7 feet overcast, sometimes raining "victory at sea" conditions crew- me/rich/neal/makani the forecast was for the the dropping swell to swing more easterly, so we decided to overlook the prevailing onshore winds and go with the guarantee of some uncrowded waves on the Marine Base (Kaneohe). i rode with rich in his truck and we pulled up to the beach at 5:50a. neal drove up a bit later. conditions were pretty bad but there was overhead waves slamming around. at least a quick check of the waterline on the beach didn't show any portugese-man-o-wars. makani pulled up about a half hour later. i guess i had been spoiled by the past few days of excellent surf on the North Shore. these waves were sloppy & backing off on the outside; then they pitched & dumped on a nasty sucking sandbar. after flailing in the washing machine conditions for an hour or so, i threw my hands up, went in & grabbed the video camera from the car. i viddied from the water line for about half an hour then makani came in to take the camera (i kooked out in round two also). while we were all still out, makani got a few insane close out barrels in the crushing middle sandbar.. of us three standups, rich was the only one (that i saw) to get a few decent off the lips & snaps. the conditions were better suited for neal on the bodyboard and he was doing great. i watched him do an "el rollo takeoff", which blew me away. as we were paddling to make it past a breaking set, i thought he was just powering up to go over, the next thing i knew he was upside down going over with the lip. i got some good video of him getting tubed and makani got a cool shot of him doing an off the lip rollo thingy. at least we were the only ones out. good surfing to you, bud ------------------------------- Saturday Sept 19, 1998 6:30a-10:00a "Laniakea" North Shore avg wave face-----------4-5 feet sets wave face----------7-9 feet plus clear skies smooth water, slight side-offshores crew- me/rich i thought yesterday's crowd was bad; i have NEVER surfed a more crowded session than the first hour today. lanis was one of the few places catching the northeast swell so *everyone* was there. at one time i counted nearly 40 guys in the lineup. the tension in the crowd was palpable. every wave started off with 3 guys going left and right! the waves were excellent, though. some surf friends that were out included, Kerry Terukina, Reid Inoue, Lance Hookano & Ben Aipa. the waves were a bit bigger than yesterday. rich was scoring sets & killing it. . . i had a few good rides but felt out of it today, couldn't find a groove. oh well. bud --------------------------------------- Friday Sept 18, 1998 6:10a-9:45a "Laniakea" North Shore avg wave face----------- 5 feet sets wave face----------6-8 feet clear skies smooth water, slight side-offshores crew- me/rich pulled up to Lanikea while it was still dark. must've been 30 cars in the lot already. me & rich hit the water running; the northeast swell was pushing rights that were peeling for a hundred yards. kinda smaller than expected but very nice. me & rich were both "on" & we were getting more than our share of waves. my 6'3 was feeling real good; don't think i even got caught inside more'n once or twice. . . one of those kind of sessions. bud ------------------------------------------ Saturday, Sept 12, 1998 6:30a-9:30a "Backyards" North Shore avg wave face----------- 4-6 feet sets wave face---------- 6-8 feet plus overcast smooth water, slight side-offshores crew- me/rich/neal/makani me/rich/makani met at my office at 5:15a & piled into the budmobile. picked up some coffee and met neal (& his visiting relative) in the dirtlot parking at Laniakea at 6am. surf was small & crowded at Lanis so we headed up the coast. saw some five footers hitting Sunset so we knew there'd be waves at "yards." few minutes after checking the surf from the beach we were paddling out. the previous day's premature call of the well publicized swell meant that everyone was out surfing this morning. brother rich had one of the biggest/best rights of the morning & was blasting the lip on many sets. makani was low-key today, surfing like a pro as usual but not jockeying for the sets. neal scored several long clean walls on the bodyboard & a barrel or two, but his relative was new to the ocean so he was busy keeping an eye out for him felt real good to drop into a bit of north shore juice. walls were lining up nicely & i was in synch with the crowd. had several hard off the bottom/straight up snaps that made my day. plus a nice dry cover-up right in front of a group of people paddling out. only downside of the session was a freak that was shoulder hopping & dropping on everyone. good surfing to you, bud

Sunday Sept 6, 1998
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south shore (spot unnamed) avg wave face--------- 5 feet sets wave face-------- 6-7 feet mostly overcast, sometimes clearing oil-slick conditions, some periods of light offshores stoke factor (1-10)------8 "All-Time" rating (1-10)--5 early morning hooked up with surfbuds Neal, Makani and Mo at a "secret" spot. my brother rich had prior obligations. waves looked small from shore but decided to commit to the 25 minute walk out to the jump-in point. neal hauled his longboard, his SLR and his camcorder. all in anticipation of his friends Jimmy & Wade meeting us at the break by boat (jimmy's 16' outboard). after a few mediocre waves at the "inner" lineup, i followed neal across the channel to the "outer" spot. within half an hour the waves started to improve. although it was a bit small for the particular break (real slopey & mushy until it gets well overhead), some overhead sets were coming in and the water was mirror-smooth. long lefts and short, rippable (sp?) rights. a bit later jimmy & wade came flying over in the boat. wade jumped in the lineup w/his body board & jimmy picked neal up & ran him over to the breakwater to grab the photostuff. neal jumped back in and Jimmy shot video & stills from his boat. we all hammed it up for the camera, and jimmy yelled his hilarious commentary from the boat ("OH MY GOD! you KOOK! i can't believe you missed that wave", etc.). makani was riding his longboard like it was a 6'6". . . neal was catching all kinds of waves, and is getting better and better on the tank. wade snagged some of the biggest waves of the session, opting for the rights near the channel. Mo surfed his "gun" like a pro, and scored several long rights & lefts. after a while neal climbed into the boat & jimmy jumped into the lineup with his longboard. neal shot video and yelled his pay-back for jimmy's good natured heckling. jimmy was total stoke in the water & on the waves, hooting as he dropped into some great rides. as the waves started to slack off. . . neal & makani each had a "skurfing" session, then they each tried to get "towed-in-by-boat" onto a wave, with mixed results. when we finally went in (courtesy of jimmy's boat), i got my chance at "skurfing" and flailed. oh well. the whole session we were the only ones out and we all had a blast. good surfing to you, bud see neal's excellent write up & photos of the session at his website Here ------------------------------------ ------------------------------------- Saturday Sept 5, 1998 6:00a-9:00a south shore ("Lighthouse") avg wave face--------- 2-3 feet sets wave face-------- 4 feet overcast some wind chop, sideshore winds (trades) stoke factor (1-10)------4 "All-Time" rating (1-10)--1 me & rich hit it early again. . . average session at lighthouse. swell dropping fast. i surfed poorly today. crowd was worse than usual. ------------------------------------------------- Friday Sept 4, 1998 6:15a-9:10a south shore ("Lighthouse") avg wave face--------- 3-4 feet sets wave face-------- 5 feet clear skies fairly smooth water, light sideshore winds (trades) stoke factor (1-10)------7 "All-Time" rating (1-10)--2 my brother rich's birthday. . . he's on vacation & has a new 6'5" thruster. he caught Ala Moana Bowls yesterday well overhead, so we went out this morning to catch the last of the swell. waves looked good from the cliff so we trotted down to the beach. we both seemed to be "on" and each had an excellent session. lots of solid smacks and hard turns.